A new wild product has popped up on crowdfunding site, Indigogo. The product, Digipod, turns old cameras, like the classic Minolta sRt 201 SLR into fully digital cameras, using nothing more than a pod inserted into the film slot. Even more incredibly, the pod costs a mere $200. In order to produce this, they need a minimum of 200,000 pounds (around $300,000) in donations. Through day one, they’ve raised around 10,000 pounds with minimal press attention. If they could keep that steady through their 30 day term, they will easily pass their goal, but that’s a challenge, and I may need to help out in the end if it’s getting down to the wire.
For the cost of a cheap point and shoot, this allows photographers to leverage the power of high-quality film cameras, whose prices have been driven down by the popularity of digital, and the cost of film.
Check the video out for yourself, and donate if you’d like this in your camera. I know I do (though TBH, I’m not donating because I don’t have the cash).
The digipod project page can be found here.
Canon just launched their EOS rebel T5i (700d), and it has some big differences from their previous rebel models, the T4i (650D) and T3i (600D) that you should know before looking at buying any DSLR.
Sensor Changes: Canon has indicated that minor sensor enhancements have been made, but the resolution of 18 Megapixels that we’ve seen since the T2i has been left untouched on the T5i. Three generations is a long time to not touch resolution, but 18 megapixels is large enough for nearly any purpose, and still leads the lower ends of the market, and the mid range.
Autofocus: Canon has kept the autofocus system largely the same, which is is OK on the T5i because the autofocus was significantly upgraded on the T4i, when they switched all points to crosstype, a faster, more efficient focus.
Expanded ISO and low light shooting: This has been a sticking point for me in the past with cheaper DSLRs. They don’t always have very good low light performance which means crazy noise, and that the autofocus doesn’t quite work (it just gives up in dim light). The T4i’s ISO range went up to 6400 with expandability up 12800. The T5i doubled the possible range, with an ISO range up to 12,800, expandable up to 25600. This brings the T5i in line with some of its’ more expensive competitors from Nikon, like their full-frame D600.
Burst Rate: The Rebel line has been known as the lower end of burst rate for a while. The T4I shot at a mere 3.7 FPS at full resolution, which is not fast enough for real sports shooting. Many people have paid up for nicer models based on this alone. The T5i has 5 Frame per second shooting, which is just slightly slower than Canon’s $1000+ bodies. That’s a 35% improvement in speed, and now the Rebel T5i is a much more viable option for consumers who want to get that perfect action shot at their kid’s soccer game.
Weight has stayed fairly consistent on the T5i, with a minor difference from the T4i. Everything else from the T4i is fairly similar on the T5i, including the touch screen controls, manual controls, inputs, and layout. Canon did add a dial for a 360 degree rotation feature, and a few software upgrades, but that’s about it.
So when’s it worth an upgrade? If you’re shooting in low-light, or shooting athletics you’ll notice a significant difference, but elsewhere it’s practically the same camera. Video settings have improved a bit from previous models, but not significantly. Ultimately, if you have a 60D, T3i, or newer there’s no real reason to upgrade yet.
Who here has watched one of those ghost hunting shows? Come on, and admit it Mr.science. You like watching them flaunt their cool gadgets to prove mythical creatures. And how about those creepy pictures in the dark where they’re walking through furniture? Want to know how to do that? I’ll teach you how to do that with only a camera and yourself. SCARE YOUR FRIENDS.
What You’ll Need:
- A dark room. Not a photographic “dark room” but rather a room with very little light
- DSLR, superzoom, or other large sensor digital camera with controllable shutter speed
- Piece of Furniture
- Ghostly Costume- because ghosts from the 50s didn’t where Nike t-shirts and jeans
- Free Photo Editing Software. Even programs like iPhoto will work for this
- Rudimentary Knowledge of how to operate said camera
To make it extra scary, include a detailed background behind your scene, such as a poster. The poster will be visible through the person, giving them a further ghostly appearance.
Steps to make your ghost photo:
- Put on your costume. Be creative. I created a lab setup and put on a lab coat I had from last halloween and a creepy wig.
- Set up your camera on a tripod. With long exposures, the worst thing you can do is let your camera shake. If you don’t have a tripod, at least set your camera up on a solid flat surface.
- Focus your lens. Autofocus doesn’t work in the dark, so you’ve got to focus manually before you turn out the lights.
- Further configure your camera. Automatic ISO is best, and you’re going to want a shutter speed of at least 15 seconds. Most DSLRs max out timed shutters at 30 seconds.
- Put your furniture in the shot. Scout out a place where you can quickly hide it.
- Turn out the lights. Use your flashlight to navigate and find the shutter. Turn the flashlight out BEFORE you turn on the shutter. For a cool fog effect, leave the door open a crack for a tiny bit of light leak. Be careful not to let too much in though, or it could ruin your image.
- Start the shutter. A.K.A Click the photo-taking button on your camera.
- Stay out of the shot and count out half of your shutter speed. For example, if I shoot at 30 second exposure, I’m going to count to 15.
- After getting halfway through. Run to where your furniture is, push it out of the view of the camera, and pose for the remaining 12-15 seconds until the shutter closes.
- Review your shot to make sure you got it.
- Load your shot into your photo editing software.
- Increase the brightness just a tad, and crop it to crop out unnecessary areas of the room. Even the automatic optimization tool iPhoto will fix your photo enough in a single click to make it clear and scary.
- Share your photo and scare your friends.
How this works.
Your camera sees you in its’ sensor for the last 15 seconds, and your furniture for the first 15 seconds. It essentially blends you with the furniture, and fades you naturally based on how long you’re in the photo, while the background is solid. This is similar to the principle behind the blur of fast-moving people in timelapses of streets.
The lack of light does two things: It gives you a darker, ghostlier appearance, and it prevents the image from being overexposed. Remember that ever 1/1000 of a second that your shutter is open, it’s exposed to light, and long shutter speeds without the right equipment in even dim daylight can completely overexpose it, and make it one indistinguishable white blob.
Are you going to give it a try?